Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Up to Big Bear Lake


Ziggy is ill with a chest type cold, but she and Bear greeted us as they were going to see the doctor for Ziggy. We had just crossed this valley of sand leading to highway 10 and the railroad where trains continuously pass loaded with 2 story high wagons of containers. The power lines are singing a terrible continuous energy buzz that would turn us insane if we lived under them. A sign said that if we saw a helicopter we should not proceed as apparently I learned later they lay power lines with helicopters. So we made it! Mile 210 and we are now camped above the Bear's laird.
They apparently bought the house just because it's near the PCT trail. As you walk in the yard you see that all is set up to welcome hikers which they do from early March to late June. We are the 703rd hikers this year, each hiker that makes the 100 mark (1, 2, 300 etc) gets a free meal, free resupplies … the gift that Bear & Ziggy would love to provide to all but finances won't allow. You should have seen the look of the hiker 700, he just could not believe it.
Pascal came back from the shower looking once again like a white man. His clothes washed smelled good and he brought us water as we camp just above the house near this lone tree providing poor shade. Nothing to eat but tiny dry grass. Bear took Pascal to town and he came back with 4 sports bags to replace the two panniers totally ripped he had initially made. Apparently he plans to put these on my back as a replacement. What was good is he bought two sacks of carrots and filled two big sacs of corn husks that people rip off the corn at the store. He even bought two corns and gave them to us … miam! We love it. Small compensation for the way he makes us work and live on this dry windy, oh so windy hill. The wind is so strong, no wonder they have windmill farms everywhere,thousands of them and that Pascal's green tent gets flattened by the gusts. Here at highway 10 the ocean wind channels itself prior to reaching the desert. Sometimes the reverse is true. There is never any respite from the wind. A reason for us leaving finally the next day after Pascal went out to lunch with Harriet and the heat passed.
The trail leads up a gully where there is an old windmill farm on the hill. The sound of the propellers is like a continuous moan of people you would be slowly torturing. It's the bearings and the sound of the wind on the propellers, but in a horror movie it would be just the right sound track for HELL. The trail is steep and suddenly we are over the pass into a new set of gullies and round mountain sides that seem endless. We did 8 miles and arrived in Whitewater, a very large stream bed of rocks with a good flow of water. There at the fall of night we camped with Emily joining us for the night.
Crossing a river is quite an ordeal
Next morning at the break of day Pascal got up and started preparing. Not yet used to the sports bags he fixed them poorly and I got a skin burn from rubbing on my front leg. He really should be more careful. The trail for the next 10 miles went over hill and dale as they say, mostly raw desert mountain stuff without any food and no shade. Finally we arrived at the Mission stream and there we were able to drink and rest. Pascal went bathing in the stream using our water bucket to create himself a shower. It's so hot that his rinsed out tee shirt was dry in just a few minutes. We are waiting for 4pm to apparently do another 7 miles … I can understand wanting to get to higher grounds where there might be grass, but really do we have to carry his stuff?
Well the 7 became a 20 mile day! Somehow the maps he has do not concur on the distance and especially not with the GPS he is carrying. Anyhow, we finally did stop and Dude joined us. A nice guy working out health and living style issues in his 50s. Very courteous and a gentle soul. I like him. He even went out to hunt for water so we could have a drink. I'm tired of this country where we cannot drink when we want.
Jimmy smiles as he lays to rest




after a hard day!
Well up the hills we've gone and are now at the door of Big Bear. Apparently Pascal in 1980 conducted the first Minitel experience full blown in Big Bear for the Intelcom 80 telecommunications exposition in Los Angeles. 
A big event that almost changed America. ATT wanted to equip all US homes with a minitel. Of course the French manufacturers were too greedy and wanted to manufacture the equipment instead of the ATT industries on licence. So the whole thing went down the drain, mostly because when an American says something, he'll stand by it in writing, while the French have this cultural habit of testing everything out in words and THEN writing what they believe was worked out in the conversation. A very different approach to business and one that creates clashes while both parties are “honest” in their behaviour.

Jimmy supervises the camp
Today and yesterday we did 12 and 10 miles respectively, Jimmy lays completely down and I'm concerned he might be over exhausted. I'll have to watch him and make sure that BRUTE Pascal understands. We are willing to walk but not kill ourselves carrying all his luxury! Imagine that, he cooks each night, makes himself hot chocolates and coffee with his thermos whenever he feels like it … and eats candies without sharing! He was nice today, leaning over his stick like a real sheep herder, waiting while we ate some scrumptious grass he found in a hollow.
Well, he will try to organize in Big Bear both our stay with Bruce and Stevie, the Love family who live beyond Cahon pass, only10 days from here; and our transfer to Walker Pass or evenKennedy Meadows. Hope it works out, I'm tired of this dry woodsy or deserted country where a donkey can't find a decent meal. No wonder I'm loosing weight as well as Jimmy. Nothing serious, possibly just a change into muscles, but still, 2 more notches in the belly strap is not nothing!
The daily walk in these hills is like walking in an art gallery. Nature has a way of transforming with it's “ageing” principle and events such as storm, thunder tearing bark off trees, mummifying sun and rain, so that at each turn there is another wonder to look at. Yesterday we crossed a marble mountainside, white and with veins that would do well in a bathroom. Here it's just a remarkable path called the PCT. The 10 plus miles we do each day enable us to change several times environments, between gullies, flat tops, sheer mountain ridges with vistas over the desert or climbing into the century old trees. It's something else than the 7 acres I was raised in …
Alright Jimmy quit fussing and lie down









Meeting a hiker friend on the trail


Saturday, May 25, 2013


Sorry about the posting but there was NO time to load the pictures at Paradise. They are on the last post and the new ones here.

We are now at Ziggy & Bear's place, crossing Highway 10
Leaving Paradise café (see their blog) we did a picture session where once again I was the star. People like to have their pictures taken with me … Jimmy & Pascal are sometimes included but of course when it comes to single pictures with someone, it's with me. We had to retrace a mile to reach the PCT and then we meandered up the mountain to reach areas of big rocks where it was quite difficult to climb over the rocks and pass through with our packs.
People leave water for the hikers
Lots of rubbing, impressive steps, almost mountain climbing … but we made it through and marvelled at the changing landscape. Trees are a new thing for us, I'd never seen such big things. We are also crossing meadows where the grass looks luscious … of course Pascal won't stop for us to taste it. I think he is still with the people at Paradise café in his mind, he would have gladly taken Dia for a ride I think. A delicious generous person with a smile to boot … She even kissed him goodbye and I think he regretted not really kissing her back. I sense he is in a strange melancholy feeling the need to share and missing a female companion while quite happy to be alone and really enjoying his time with us.
Well after 5 miles we finally camped in a nice spot where there was grass and a great dust bowl where Jimmy & I rolled with joy. We managed to roll just in front of his tent and put dust all over the place! He hollered but seemed happy to see us enjoy it so much. I tasted dead tree cuts and must say that oak brambles are really tasty. We are starting to experience quite a few new plants and I especially like the stiff grass bunches that grow along the path … when Pascal will let me taste them. There were quite a few at camp and they are now all shaved down as I insured that none was left to stand. In the morning we went in turns to greet Pascal when he woke up and as he sat in the tent we hugged and licked him to thank him for this camp where we ate most of the night. When we left there was so much poop around you'd think there was a whole herd of donkeys around.
Camping at Taquiz meadows
This morning we did 8 miles all up hill to get to cedar springs which is one mile off the trail but with good water, shade and BIG trees. Lovely spot for lunch even is the grass is a bit rare.
I was watching as a humming bird came to say hello to Pascal after lunch. He hovered for quite a while, almost as if having a conversation. They do that you know. Curious little birds who make a lot of noise with their wings as they stand still in the air.
Jimmy has a sore where the bag rubs agains him, so Pascal has decided to exchange the saddle panniers to load the heavy stuff in my bags on Jimmy and the light stuff in the big bags for me. Hopefully he can tie them so they are not too low for me. I'm not sure I look as pretty with these. As we leave this hollow, we are going to test carrying a full load of water as our next water source is 16 miles away. Then we have another 10 miles to water and get to the top of the mountain where we'll have to go 20 miles from water to water … The Yacinto Mountain is a really tough spot.
----------------------------------------------------------HELP ?? PLEASE -----------------------------------------------
Pascal has decided that he is going to call on the network of people who take horses on trails and ask if someone can help us by transporting us from Cahon Pass to Kennedy meadows or just before. This way we can avoid the hot desert, stop at a major grocery store on the way to re-supply and be at the foothills of the sierras early June. He hopes someone in the Cahon area can meet us one morning and load us so we get there mid day. It'll take the person a day but Pascal will of course pay for the expenses (gas, food …). It would REALLY help us. He thinks we can be there around the 8th of June weekend … but that will have to be worked out with the person and depend on how we progress. He has run out of phone credit and has to buy some, but the best way to communicate is by Email.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well for tough … it IS tough. Uphill all the time and you go around, down then up much more, then a few seconds of flat and there you go up again. Yesterday we did 9 miles and camped on the edge of the trail where there was a little grass. Good thing because right after the trail went down and no grass for miles. Today we did 14 miles! And over 2500 ft of climbing.
We left at 6:30 and got there at 12:30 so in 6 hours we did them. We met ranger maintenance crew, young, full of energy and doing outdoors work they obviously like. Pascal thanked them for the work enabling us to use the trail. The head of the team, a woman of great class in her late 20s, Pascal had already met at Warner Springs. She mentioned that there was a boulder in the middle of the trail. Well I tell you! She did not mention the tree that lays on the trail and is nearly as high lying down than the height of my legs. How do you want a poor donkey, loaded with a full load (Pascal is validating that the limp episode is over) to wiggle, I really say WIGGLE, because that's what I had to do! Poor Jimmy was almost dragged over. Then when we got to the rock, oh I wish Pascal had taken a picture, imagine a slanted rock, barring the full passage with the near edge as high as my knees and the far edge at the level of my nose. NO, I was NOT going to risk this seeing that if I slipped, one side was a rock wall and the other a VERY VERY steep down hill. All that in a bend of the trail. I think I saw my last moments arrive. I backed out. Pascal however was on the rock (looking like a surfer) and managed to get the lead rope stuck so that I could NOT pull back. I looked at the thing under all it's angles, but I knew Pascal would not give up, I had tried this at the streams. If he did the rope thing I was sure to be hung by the head over the hillside. No, I had to find a way. WELL I DID! I decided that no one understands how far a donkey can leap. I leaped right over the rock taking Pascal by surprise. He almost fell over the side. Of course I did not land easily and had to catch myself on my knees, but that worked. My back feet had to follow of course, scraping on the way, but I got up and pulled my brother over it. I was scared but proud. Hey let's see you with a 60lbs pack take that big a leap! Pascal was VERY happy and hugged both of us. I think he wasn't sure I'd go across. But that was not all, oh no! We kept going up hill, and up hill. Of course we donkeys don't mind going up, and we like to do it fast so it's done with. So Pascal has to half run up the hills to keep up with us. I know we should slow down, but that's our revenge … and it's easier. Well Pascal after 7 miles of this was tiring like the rest of us. But we're half his age and we don't smoke! So he was struggling more and more and at one point I got worried, he finally did pause because he could sense his heart beating much too hard. I think the rapid gain in altitude did not help. 3000 feet up in less than 2 days is a lot. This San Jacinto mountain, if it does not kill us, we will be able to say we are getting in shape. Once on top of the San Bernardino range, I think we'll be fit for the Sierras.
Manzanita bloom
I watch Pascal as I munch on this rough basket weaving quality grass, the only one up here surprisingly, and see him put around his camp seeming quite busy. Between the salt and water supplies for us, his diner, repairing his sandals and hiking boots with a leaking tube of epoxy (Araldite) and inspecting the surroundings … now of course he is typing in his tent. No lost moments as he fills his time with living, appreciating, reflecting on the past, on the nature of his relationships, … at his needs and his desires, questioning the WHY of his being. I think he is quite happy for the time being. His meditations are needed at this time, times will change and so will situations. What I'm really happy is that we seem to make a good 3 being team. Oh did I tell you that today he took the wrong trail, I found myself facing a low hanging tree, Jimmy kept going as he is wont to do, and then the two of us fell down and rolled down the hill … thank goodness the undergrowth was luscious and soft. Jimmy got unattached from me which allowed him to stand on the switchback below, but I was so tangled that Pascal literally pulled me downslope which allowed me to free my legs and get up on the trail. No one, nor any equipment seemed to be hurt, possibly Pascal's backpack got it's outside pouch ripped. Then we went off … in the wrong direction, happily a hiker came up immediately and we turned around … Pascal had really been upset … with reason.

The Taquiz valley here is really quite a marvel, I think we're going to stay the day and only leave in the evening to do 6 miles. Nice to rest after yesterday while still going a bit forward. A deer came to visit on the other side of the stream this morning. Pascal did some repairs, and fixed a hot supper. He does that regularly on his funny tube stove. But it works really well and he can make fires safely almost anywhere. It burns practically everything, here it's pine cones as they have the advantage of not cracking and sending sparks like the wood does. He has ideas for improving the model but is quite satisfied with his invention. Finally today we did 8 miles and camped on the side of a stream tumbling down the mountain. He put us up a little below where there was some grass … not the kind I particularly like but we did manage to eat. He camped right by the stream on a flat rock and heard the sound of tumbling water all night. A couple of hikers passed by but aside from taking MY picture, they passed on despite the invitation by Pascal to stay. Interesting this trail where people are really on their own journey. A few manage to make groups that travel at the same pace, but mostly people are meditating about their lives, the meaning of it all. Some like the woman who backtracked at 11pm, complaining about altitude sickness, turn back and you then wonder if they'll start up again or someday … or never. Human drama at it's best, no need to look at prime time comedy.
The full moon is rising over the mountain which is the only thing bathing in the last rays of sun. We are eating dirt for minerals, brambles for stamina, grasses for energy, bark, wood chips, … adapting to whatever is edible. We like to scratch the earth, soften a spot and then roll in the dust making a cloud. Only once did Pascal put his camp downwind … I don't think he'll do it again.
Today it was downhill, I mean really downhill with a 4000ft drop in elevation over 15 miles. I had to put a stop to it, Pascal was thinking of going on 20 miles to reach a water faucet at the edge of the desert crossing. But we had had it! Imagine, I crossed 5 streams and even with getting my feet wet, I jumped over a rock, a tree, another tree, and we went around a half dozen trees that barred the trail. Even once I could not make it up the hill and Pascal had to unpack me and carry all the stuff up the hill himself. Yes we are ALL tired, this was a long day.
Strange mushroom ? just pops out
There is a lot of trail maintenance to do between 172 and 198, sometimes the ways hikers have taken are more evident than the PCT, or you can't see the PCT so you take the by-pass. And I won't mention how I pushed all day trough the bushes to help maintain the trail (but destroyed the bags, panniers if you prefer!). We are going back to the desert so there is only dry grass and dirt and brambles here. The tiny surface grass is really delicious, but it takes hours to collect enough of it for a meal! Our pooh smells different than it used to and the colour of it is much darker. Interesting how we adapt to our environment. At last the wind seems to have died down after sunset. It has been stressing to be in the wind always for the last 50 miles. No wonder we see so many windmills, full fields of them down in the valley below. You'd think we were at the Grand Canyon considering the drop and the Big Bear mountain range on the other side of this valley with highway 10 crossing it. A narrow valley that links the ocean coast with the desert. Having to squeeze either wind makes for continuous strong winds. Yesterday at 2800 meters (I'm international, so you'd better get used to metrics) some 8000 ft for the ignorants, it was cold, but here at 1500 meters it is still cold. The desert influence I suppose. We go to bed with the light and get up the same, a rhythm that changes your way of being … alone or with others. Pascal just got up to pee before crawling in his bag, you should have seen him, a real wooden stick creature, stiff from the day's descent!

Sunday, May 19, 2013

Just remember WHO is the boss


Alright! It's been a while … and you ain’t heard yet!
So we head off, I'm still sore, and go into this grassland resembling the far west of our favourite westerns. ..
I must have seen oak trees that were born before the first white man set foot on this continent. Majestic, imposing, they have made clear of anything around and they look down at us wondering if we're worth it. Of course we're worth it, I'm a donkey after all!
Well this heard of horses came rushing at us as soon as we set out. Pascal was quite nervous trying to impose himself with his voice and shooing the horses away. I must say, last time he got half his hand torn off so he has reason to be worried. Until they stopped getting closer Jimmy & I weren’t sure what was going to happen. I almost stepped over Pascal while not paying attention. I must say he stumbled and fell and we were on another set of concerns. But eventually the horses ran away and we carried on, just a bit more nervous but walking a good pace.
Then we started up the mountain, hills I know, but you carry all that material up and you'll say they're mountains too. On the way we crossed a creek. I wasn't going to make a fuss of that one. Besides he walked right over it and as I was following I didn't realize it was a creek until I had half the body over it. Anyhow, this crazy creek, nice shade, kept crossing the path. Once ok, twice alright but the third time Pascal did not see the crossing right away and I was NOT going to let him pass that by me. Well he told me I had to, he showed the right set of escalation, voice, gesture, slap on the behind … so as I was not moving he got out his rope, made it so I could only face the stream, and each time I let go to see closer, he took up the slack, never pulling but no slack. All right, I knew I'd had it, so I crossed and Jimmy jumped. Then he had to pack all that useless rope. He was a bit flustered so I managed to cross the next 5 or was it 3? anyhow all without fuss and even stepping right into the stream water. Ya, I know, I'm too good to him.
But he kept going even though after 5 miles we found a real cozy spot with grass where hikers were still enjoying the morning. No he had set his mind on an end point and he was going to get there wether we liked it or not. Well, I accentuated my limping, really, I think my tendons in my legs are sore and it's ok if I warm them up for a while, but after that they just act up. I'm trying to tell him but he'll hear none of it. I was ok for about 7 miles, but after that I started slowing down and stumbled once in a while. He's wondering if I'm putting on an act, but really I am stumbling.
Well finally we did get to his dirty water spot and had to go back to the trail to find grass and a flat spot for the tent. Slowly hikers came in and though a few did go on, we finally built up a motley group of quite fascinating people. It's nice to see what “atmosphere” each hiker carries with him or her. I find the guys in no too macho mind sets and gals not girls at all while remaining women. Nice to share a large pot of noodles with indian vegetable curry as a spice. He'd made lots so each of the 5 there at eating time got a bowl. Then he made hot chocolate as the night came on and between the guitar, the talk, … the silence of the night, feelings had time to mature into a comradeship. As usual, they all went to bed early and finally we poor donkeys got a chance to sleep.
Next morning he served the coffee he'd made and kept hot in his thermos all night. Each as they woke up had his cup right out of his sleeping bag. They appreciated. Then, each one having packed up said goodbye and left. Pascal who had been gathering things, was getting us loaded as the last ones left. I showed him I was stumbling but he loaded us anyhow, it's true he unloaded me of more than half my load and put it on Jimmy. Off we went, again up the hill (which I prefer due to my leg) and mile after mile. Half way up the hill, I don't remember if it's Jimmy or a bush, but I managed to get my packsaddle askew and sliding over my side. It scared me and I just wanted to get away, but Pascal stopped me on this steep hillside and attached me to a bush. Then patiently he unharnessed me and re harnessed me, making sure the light panniers were of equal weight. I just waited facing the hill. For once, Jimmy did not try to pass by me as he likes to try when I stop. Here it was really too steep. Then he went on and on and on and on and … well you get the idea. On the 5th mile there is a downhill and after going down I just wanted to stop. I stopped in the shade and made it clear it was time to stop. He allowed a couple of minutes while he took a drink, but then, always in a hurry, he forced me to go on. We tried to repeat this 2 or 3 times but no way, he had to get to Mike Herrera's place where he knew there was water. It's true as we near 11am the heat is starting to make us thirsty.
Well, I slowed down the last 2 miles but we did finally make it. Once there and unloaded he put on our foot bracelets but did not tie us down. So we have this hill above the house to wander in, with bushes, secluded spaces and lots of grass. Pascal of course, instead of saying how useful we are in keeping lawns trim, just said we were good in case of fire hazard … not very class don't you think?
I must say, he did put water for us before taking a drink and saying hello to the “permanent” volunteers and the camp host Kushy. Some through hikers, stop here and in exchange of food and lodgings help get things done around the camp. I call it a camp since there is a main house, a sitting room garage and people in trailers and barns. Well usually, because since we've arrived we are only 7 or 8 around. The camp host and his “staff” serve breakfast & diner to hikers with the hope that they'll leave enough money to feed the next lot. Pascal leaves $10 a day just for toilets, water, stove use and a place to stay. But finally he gets also invited to eat what there is and he contributes by feeding people with his food as well. He made apparently crazy cookies, real mess ups, but the hikers loved them. Today after a good night's sleep he repaired Jimmy's panniers which were tearing on the inside this time, and then he started some bread. Apparently they're going to turn them into Calzone's with folded into them chorizo. A little onion soup to give flavour and that should become the evening meal.
Kushy & family, daughter, mother
Well, the host decided on another route, tacos with the chorizo … oily but good so the bread got cooked as such and if a little dense, it was all eaten without even giving us a piece?
Alone
What does it mean to be alone? To be silent with the universe, to be isolated from the bumps of the presence of others? What can you hear, feel, experience when you are alone? The vibrations of the universe become audible and you sense life in the wind on the flaps of your tent. Alone, is with yourself, so the world is here, now, present and intense. There is no complaining, no failing to see, since you are the only one that is here and now. How can you hide from something when you're alone? You can always see yourself coming, playing the game … or not … Alone with your consciousness, so what you live is what you are. Whether you like it or not, you are what you are … and have to live with it. But who am I after all? What have I become? What's going to make me like myself better? For I do love myself, after all only when you can love yourself can you start loving others. Otherwise you're in competition with the others always “better” than you. You enter the circle of endless discontent chasing after yourself.
People are like swarms of fish, you never can anticipate where they are going, but they go where survival leads them. And though we are each convinced of our total independence, we miraculously transform mass expression into liberty. So when I'm alone, like my indian friend once told me, there are two rooms to my house, in my teepee where I'm intimate, and outside where all my friends are. On this trip, I'm inside my teepee … and that is where the world is.
With

What do we mean when we say we are “WITH” …? With someone, with something, with … a friend, a lover … there are many ways to be with. With myself is again another dimension, like the 3rd dimension of space it opens many facets to the same crustal. The crustal that is actually a thing that obeys the rules of physics, thus an entity. Focus of: a thought, a concept, a feeling … , it is the Eureka of creating something out of being WITH. With my love we dream our lives. Each one in his own dream while being totally together That! Is making love.
With my creation I live the here and now.
I write as the sun goes down, here I am warm and alive … WITH my-self.

Kushy sits & discusses with through hikers
Ah! this morning my leg is feeling better. I still hobble and keep the weight off of it when standing, but I'm moving around and getting places. Maybe tomorrow I can walk almost normally. At this rate in 3 or 4 days I'll be walking and possibly take walks a couple of days before finally taking the trail again.
You can tell it is NOT AT ALL the way Pascal had imagined our first 400 miles … but he is just as dependent on us as we are on him … well almost. The events of the trail is what dictates what happens. So he gets up perky and after checking me out, he fills the days with visits to us, helping out in the kitchen, but not really taking on projects. He negotiated a price per day so that he did not have to feel obliged. Nor does he eat unless asked. For that he is autonomous. He baked cookies & bread but neither were to be glamorous about. It wasn't bad and got eaten, did not conform to the “standards” of either cookie or bread making. You just have to like whole grains consistent bread.
Trail angels ... solicit donations to help feed the hikers
Somehow, his birth date came up, I think he jumped when someone said it was the 10th, and then at the fall of day, all the people present came up the hill into our pasture, the one we are kind enough to share with him, and in a semicircle sang “happy birthday to you”. The cupcake, symbol of the cake with icing and all! Was topped by a present of a medicinal plant. 62 like 60 was feasted out of the heart like in the close family, much more touching than pre-programmed events. In his world, you must be getting old because now you can get a life long pass to the national forests for only $10. At least the “getting old” part is of interest. I say we got to make the young ones pay! After all, sometimes they come without our really 'wanting' them, then they eat the hell out of your refrigerator, and I'm not forgetting the motherhood requests that the little one be able to climb, dance, play chess, be kept during work … or play, paint, socialize, experience, … and go with the others … of course. As for our leisures as a couple, the children were always included ... So they can now pay for our incapacity to manage our own world! Aren't kids there for that … our grandparents were stupid enough to plant trees that only their 5th generation after would be able to harvest.
Preparing to leave, gathering the gear ...
He did do the laundry today, I wonder what it feels like to change your skin each day. And how can he make sure it fits? All these different pieces! Anyhow the day is hot with a very nice breeze and the grass is good. Oh, by the way a wonderful lady left us alfalfa and oats hay. The blond (I should say white …) head decided we were to eat the grass for now and covered it up! I sure hope it doesn't mould under there … I'd love to taste it. Well he did share his apple with us, I could eat several before I'd get a stomach ache. And this afternoon he even brought us a taste of Oats Hay. Dry stuff but what a taste. Of course he is keeping it to himself, we'll only get the left overs. You know, those Oats who lost their heads full of delicious grain in the shake out.
A flow of hikers come in and out of this place like water down a stream … in droplet of course! Some get wet and stick around, others spend an hour and are on the trail again. Driven by the phantasmagoria monster of “Thru Hikers”, that mythical grail. Amazing how those humans can just get focussed on something and then just put all they have into it. It sure gets things done, wether they were useful, beneficial or plain worth while, that here is not the issue. The issue is the ISSUE as one might say. Words are interesting … No?
Nature has sculptures ... we pass by
There he is again, eating his trail mix, you know the big fruits that float on top of a fresh bag and then for 3 days you have to “eat the rest”. Munching and trying to type my thoughts as I much on fresh grass on top of my hill. He keeps drinking coffee and munching while I'm doing all the creative stuff. Humans are really fumy. It makes me want to roll on my back. He took my hobble bracelet off this morning and freed us at dawn so we feel quite free to go about. Even Jimmy was going to visit down at the house but got brought back, just like when yesterday he tried to follow hikers out onto the road. That's the only other issue up a steep stair case made of agglomerated corn grinding wheels or cut grinding stones.
Well the guys left the gates open so Jimmy insisted that we take a short walk. I keep telling him that my leg is not good yet, he urged me on so I stumbled with him. Pascal who had been looking at a very strange film about a guy loosing immediate memory … finally came to get us and we walked back slowly to camp. Each day I can use my leg a little more, after 3 days I can now stand on it and though I'm still not walking, I can go about and choose my food. Pascal gave us corn husks this morning and that was REALLY good.
The days pass by and I can tell he is getting ancy to move on. If my leg is getting better, it's no where near a hiker's leg and he can look at all the maps he wants, it isn't going to work until he knows how many miles we can do without my hobbling again. I figure after 5 days I should be able to start walking normally again, but between that and being ready for the trail … I just don't know. Then the question is how much is good and at what point do I begin to degrade again? I guess we'll just have to feel our way though it. Then a guy went out to the Paradise Cafe and is going to bring back the hoof boots sent by a wonderful woman. Will they help? Can it really improve my footing? Will they fit first of all? I guess we'll try them on and see. Meanwhile here the life is comfortable and friendly, just not our cup of tea since our minds are more on the “trail”. Judy, the lady with the sore knee ligaments who really needs a couple of weeks of full rest is hobbling around and reconciling herself to the fact that she too is not on the trail. The contrasts between visions of the world are interesting since each brings with him on the trail his “life context” with the fears, the anxieties, the illusions and the dreams … a motley crew but each one living out his own spirit. We are only together by circumstance, no choice nor do we necessarily have much in common. The trail is the link, with it's physical demands and the rich context that each one can make of it. Hikers pass by focussed on “doing their miles”, others are just walking and enjoying without letting themselves distracted from the journey. We who are stopped for a while, wonder who is going to make it to the end and who will abandon along the way. The Mohave desert crossing will begin the selection process. I wonder if Pascal will choose (or have the opportunity) to have us skip that part and have us trailered to either 58 above Tehachapi or possibly to Walker Pass on 178 from after Lake Arrowhead somewhere before or at Cahon Pass on the 15. He looks at me and I can see the questions in his eyes. Will she be ok? Can she take the trip? How soon can we start? How will she handle the next 200 miles? Can we skip the Los Angeles forest and the Mohave desert … or should we just consider that it's part of the trip and just do it? What kind of meetings await us? Can we call the Equestrian network and get someone to transport us to the foothills of the Sierras? How will Daisy & Jimmy do in the high country far from any support system? … Questions pile up in the heat of the day but answers are dependent on one major unknown, how can I best recover and can this recovery be a permanent one? I've even read in his thoughts about the issue of what happens if I am not able to DO the PCT ??? but that seems extravagant at this time.
Look at my sparkling shoes, …. just sent them when he called and asked that I try them. A gesture of not only corporate generosity, but a basic human reaction worth noting as a gift. He had talked to his donkey specialist in France, Martine; she told him to give me Bute as long as I was hobbling, an indication of pain most likely she said … ignorant! I can TELL you it's pain … at least in my head. Anyhow, these 00 fit me quite well, might even be not too large, that I'll see in a day or two, once I get used to them. A member of the community, my hero Gary, went the 24 miles needed to get them! And since, with the combination of drug and shoes, I'm almost, at times walking normally. If at the end of the day it's still the same, then the boots will have changed the situation. Not healed but … having progressed. At this time Pascal is thinking we'll stay the week. A couple of days to confirm, a couple of days to start taking walks, then a day with a couple of miles and then if all ok go the next day. … again useless speculations on his part.
Look at my brand new shoes! Gina Landers ... THANKS
RENEGADE HOOF BOOTS from Landers Industries in AZ
00 size fits and after 75 Miles I can say work very well
Meanwhile Judith has gone feeling bad about leaving the “atmosphere” of the trail even if here it was not her type of context here at Mike's, she couldn't help being interested from the perspective of a social analyst. A local couple were taking a walk, saw US, the donkeys, whom they had met at the Warner Springs community centre, and came over to give us hugs. It was even the birthday of this guy and he told us he had gotten picked up by his surprising lady … while hiking the trail. Lovely lady with issues about herself … but a good heart. Even that she said that we were wonderful (wunderbar!) and she'd write to us.
and they fixed my limping by putting my foot
in the right position, ... GREAT!
Hikers keep coming in with issues about how they are performing , how they are in pain … and the need to keep moving … at different paces. Mother and daughter teams, college girl friends who have kept in touch, a Swiss, a German, New Zealanders and people from all over the US. Many seem to “have done” the Appalachian Trail on the east coast. For some it's almost a way of life, most though are going through a “life change” and “life transitions” with less than half seeming to know what they are going to do after. Some just quit jobs, others are in-between jobs or semi retired. For a very few, including my super master, the trail has or is becoming a stable way of life. Here at Mike Herrera's place, the permanent team is slowly getting the place to look like an organized ranch.
Water tank at Mike's, essential for hikers
After setting up an outside kitchen, they are now clearing the garage and the trash has been organized and closed up so it can't fly around. If only Mike had less stuff the place could possibly start to look like a home. It seems that Crash and Red will leave in a few days and Workhorse (Bary) is talking about leaving in a day or two. Nina will leave her dog who is suffering from the heat too much (and not allowed everywhere) with her son in LA then hike the trail until she goes to Peru for some sort of mystical experience. Kushy seems to be organizing himself to keep being the house host except in full summer when no hikers pass by and then he'll probably go to Kennedy Meadows where Tom manages a hiker stop as a “trail angel”. Meanwhile the hikers keep coming in and going out with their questions about life. After all, it's a trail, not an end.


Cactus blooms, they comme in Yellow, Orange, Red ...
We took a walk this morning and my legs felt good. This afternoon on the same walk it was a bit more difficult and I started hesitating again … I'm just not quite there yet. Pascal keeps thinking that if tomorrow I can walk 2 miles without hesitating he might leave Thursday. I'm not sure he understands the time the body takes to get better. He got on my nerves this evening when he put us up for the night and as he was fussing with Jimmy's hobble, I gave him a small, very small, kick in the arm. He got really mad, screamed at me and spanked me with his hand … I think he was really seriously mad. But I'm getting nervous to get on; Jimmy is tired of this place and so am I. The grass is all but gone and though we still have oat hay and alfalfa, which he only gives sparingly, it really is time we left. Ahead there is a 3 mile climb and then a 16 mile mostly downhill before the flats … I wonder how my legs will take that … even if cut up into 3 day or 4 day segments.
We eat Oat Hay & Alfalfa ... Thanks to Sherry Freeman
she came 5 miles on dirt road to see if we were ok
The hoof shoes seem to be making it easier for me, but the medication was what probably really changed my walking yesterday. He hesitates to give it to me since then he has no real vision on what is going on … I'm not really hurting, just not comfortable and I don't know how long I can walk without going into pain again. Tomorrow is another day … I hope you sympathise.
He postponed our departure as Kushy is having his mother & daughter visit and asked him to meet them. So instead of heading out this morning, he brushed us and we went for a 4+ mile hike on the road. Not bad, I managed to end the walk without much of a hesitation on my right leg. I'm still a bit hesitant when going down hill, but on the flats and uphill I'm ok. As usual we stopped at the turn around point where there is grass up to our bellies and Jimmy just loves it. He is a marvel to watch grabbing as much top ends where all the seeds are until his mouth is full then chomping down to cut the grass and then gobbling down the sweet grass. After an hour of feeding Jimmy was still chomping while I was quietly resting in the shade. I must say, that grass beats the dry stuff we've had all our lives. Pascal keeps telling me of future mountains where there'll be even sweeter grass to eat … I let him talk but can't really believe him.
Meanwhile the days are getting hotter and apparently tomorrow is the day. Up before dawn and a morning hike, then an end of the day hike to try to get to the next water. We'll see. Have you figured out who is the boss? The trail … of course!
It is nice to rise out of the valley at dawn, the sun hits the opposite hill and down below is Mike's place, a little oasis amongst the scrub brush. Over the pass and into a new world. Now it's the far valleys with the desert sands at the bottom. Around the bend and we are now on a downward path for the next … 8, 10 … ultimately 25 miles. Jimmy is bravely carrying 80% of the load and I am prancing behind Pascal, pushing him a little in the climbs as he tends to slow while I like to speed up. Might as well since we have to go up, get it over with. Like kids I like to move when time is at moving … and have little concern about measuring out my energy. Pascal however is insuring I slow down in the steeper parts so Jimmy has time to negotiate the footing. Sometimes the trail is like a staircase of rocks. None of them seem to slow us down even if Pascal gets a little concerned about steep climbs or descents. Hell, we are donkeys, not slugs on only two legs.
The memorable part of today's 8 miles is Pascal at the stop for lunch had to backtrack two miles to find my saddle pad, the wooly sheepskin, which had slid from under my packsaddle seeing as I'm carrying almost nothing. Meanwhile we filled our bellies with nice fresh grass growing in a dry stream-bed. Around 4 he packed us up again and we walked another 3 miles, stopped to get water and did another mile before stopping at a bend in the trail where there was a wonderful flat spot of sand. As soon as we were unpacked, we both rolled in the sand and put dust all over everything! It was good! But Pascal did not appreciate, why he never rolls in the sand like us, no wonder he smells so strong! Anyhow he put us up on the hill where there was only dry grass and a couple of those weed clumps that I've grown to like so much in this desert. Jimmy and I are starting to taste all kinds of different things. Interesting how many different plants have finally a good taste. Not all of them of course but we are quickly learning to taste things and then only eat what we like. Only met a couple of hikers today, Sam who is doing the PCT in sandles and seems quite a person and his friend, recovering from 2 weeks lay off to heal, and who is still quite focused on his body issues.
The important stuff is that I did 8 miles without limping and this morning we did another 7 without my even hesitating on my foot. Finally Pascal has stopped in a canyon and we are letting the heat pass before doing the last 6 miles to Paradise café … My legs willing of course. There we might get internet and possibly pause for a day … or half day. From there to the climb into Big Bear there is water every 10 miles or so, so we'll only need 1 day's water as we climb the San Yacinto mountains. Basically 60 miles of climbing and then 16 miles of downhill. A formidable task which should definitively let me know if my legs are going to be ok for the trip. I wonder why we can't take the Palm Springs tele-cabins to go down … but apparently Pascal has ruled that out. I can see him smiling as he is typing … is it about our future miseries? Or is it the humming bird that has come to a standstill in front of him as he is typing? Anyhow, it's hot now and the shade is skimpy for us, not like our leisure lover who is laying on our wool pads in the shade. As if we donkeys didn't like luxury!
A blue bird we had not seen yet
Ok I'll have him post this so you who are waiting for my wisdom can wash your heads with it. We've arrived at Paradise Valley Café after crossing quite a few valleys, ravines and trails on steep slopes needing repairs. I'm always amazed how far you can get on foot in one day. We did 13 miles and it seems the valley we left this morning is so far away, the country has changed so much … not at all like roads where you feel you've barely gone anywhere in 20 miles. I think it's the fact that we cross areas that are still characterized by their specific nature, road crews tend to choose least changing paths and destroy identity while building the roads. Every time we hit a north slope we would find grass again, luscious grass that Pascal would not let us even taste … most of the time. I have to proudly anounce that if I did slow down the last miles, I did NOT hobble. 13 miles is really a long way still for me, but possibly 10 could become a regular day's hike. My hoof boots are holding up and even if the rubber bands are dead, the basic boot is quite comfortable and I did not loose any today.
The welcome at the Paradise Valley Café was wonderful. They brought us water and we had a nice lawn to keep tidy. We made sure it was no longer going to be a fire hazard! Meanwhile he had a beer and a big, really big hamburger with hot peppers and fries. Each one his own, frankly I prefer the 5 different varieties of grass around here. Then the place closed down at 8pm and he crawled into his tent while leaving us out in the cold. This morning there was ice and it was freezing at dawn. To excuse himself he put us out in the field under a tree where the grass is almost reaching my belly. Delicious day of rest ahead even if he came around with his Blue Coat, the medication he puts on our cuts. Jimmy and I have had a couple of stress caused skin rashes, the Blue Coat does wonders drying it up and helping heal. We hate it, but when he did his thing, he smelled of that Dr Browner's soap, you know the one with the mint. He must have washed himself and his clothes in the sink that the owner gave him the key to. He's lost weight and that always makes him look older. But he's clean and that is no luxury, I tell you!
Then I guess, if he doesn't find an easier route, we'll just go over that hill and reach the Big Bear area in 10 days or so. I hope he has enough food. It's going to be cold up there but the days are warm, we are nearing the end of May now. He had a long talk with Nathalie, she really is a wonderful person. Their roads run different routes but they have a real contact as people. It is a treasure that needs to be protected from the hurts of life. Anyhow he now has no phone credit … until he can fill up via internet.
A word from my new friend Chery, which I share with you (go see her site!)

I invite you to visit my blog:  Source Reflections


A man and two donkeys walked through my gate
He has chosen a path home to himself
It takes him to far corners of the earth
Into the harsh elements of nature

Some might call his expedition insane
Failing to grasp the depth of his searching
I see his dedication as valor
I am inspired by his devotion  

He is a man on of mission of deep inner exploration
Each day a challenge to meet who he is
Alone with Mind and two donkey’s
To share his experiences with.

He has met the challenge of Ocean
Crossing in a sailboat from Panama to Tahiti
5000 miles of nothing but water and weather
Followed by months of living with the people of the islands.

Crossed Canada in a 400 lb. four-man canoe
Testing his strength and resolve
Nature again providing her challenges
Cold, snow, mud, wind, rough lake waters…all.

And now this journey of 15000 miles, LongEars2Chile,
Walking from Mexico to Oregon on the PCT
East on the Oregon Trail to the Continental Divide
South down the divide to Chile, SA.

Pascal, this fine French man who graced our table
Has claimed a new way of life,
Not merely an adventure.
A lifelong journey of self-discovery.

Meeting the challenges of each new day
With patience, gratitude and a smile
He slowly but surely
Is finding his way home.

Namaste'
Chery

"Where is YOUR Wild Feminine?"
The hero that did 25 miles to get my shoes! Bary 

And he plays the piano!
Kushty and Krash putting on a scene